One of the pleasures of late summer is the arrival in supermarkets and other retail outlets of locally grown blueberries. This is particularly true in blueberry producing areas such as Westmorland County, N.B., and in Nova Scotia’s Cumberland County. A further idea of this berry’s significance may be found in the designation, by the town of Oxford, N.S., as the Blueberry Capital of the World. On the national level, one authority has described the blueberry as “the most valuable native plant in Canada.” Its popularity may also be found in the growing number of U-Pick blueberry locations.
It will come as no surprise to note that the cuisine of the Maritime Provinces has been greatly influenced by the historical background of the people who established homes in this region during the 18th and 19th centuries. In addition, these new settlers were quick to learn from the diet of the Mi’kmaq and Maliseet people who preceded them. It was from the latter that they learned about delicacies such as maple sugar and the importance of the fruit of native plants, including the blueberry.
If the culinary history of the region has a beginning, it must surely be the establishment in 1606-07 of the Ordre de BonTemps or the Order of Good Cheer, at Port Royal in present day Nova Scotia. Instituted by the explorer Samuel de Champlain (c.1570 - 1635), it was symbolized by the “collar of the order.” This was a chain worn by the steward – an office filled by rotation among the men who were spending the winter in the New World. On the day assigned, the steward went hunting and/or fishing. In the evening, with a staff in hand and a napkin on his shoulder, he led a ceremonial procession of his associates, all of whom were carrying dishes to the table. Entertainment followed the dinner. Naturally, there was keen competition among the men, as each tried to outdo the others in their culinary pursuits. While there is little by way of documentary evidence, it can be assumed that the fruit of native plants, such as the blueberry, would be featured in season.
There is an old proverb: “The proof of the pudding is in the eating.” With this in mind, some traditional Maritime blueberry recipes follow.
Blueberry Pie
Ingredients - 1 cup white sugar, 3 tsp cornstarch, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 cup water, 1 quart blueberries and 1 tsp butter.
Mix together sugar, cornstarch, salt, water and one cup blueberries. Cook until mixture thickens. Add blueberries and butter. Mix all ingredients together and cool. Pour into a baked pie shell. Chill in refrigerator until set. If not on a diet, top with whipped cream.
Blueberry cobbler
Ingredients: 1 cup all purpose flour, 1 tsp sugar, 2 tsp baking powder, 3 tsp shortening, 1/4 tsp salt, 3 tsp shortening, 1 egg beaten, 1/3 cup milk, 2 1/2 cups blueberries, 1/2 cup sugar, 2 tsp flour, 3/4 cup fruit juice (apple or orange), 1 tsp butter.
Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Sift together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Blend in shortening. Add egg and milk. Stir to make a moist soft batter. Place in a bowl with sugar and set aside. Blend together salt and juice in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat uhtil mixture comes to a boil. Stir constantly. Add blueberries, and continue cooking over low heat until mixture comes to a boil (about ten minutes). Pour mixture into a 2-litre casserole dish, dot with butter. Top with biscuit dough, dropping it with a tablespoon onto hot blueberries. Do not stir. Bake 35 to 40 minutes until biscuits are brown. With justification this recipe is sometimes referred to by its nickname Blueberry Grunt.
Blueberry Griddle Cakes
Ingredients: Two cups mashed potato, 2 cups flour, 2 tsp baking powder, 1 egg beaten, 2 tsp butter, 1 tsp caraway seeds, 1 cup all purpose flour, 3 tsp baking powder, 2 tsp butter, 1/2 tsp salt, and fat for frying.
Combine potatoes, egg, butter and caraway seeds. Beat until fluffy. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt together and add to potato mixture. Knead lightly until well mixed. Roll on a floured breadboard to 1/4 thickness. Cut in squares or wedges and cook in a greased frying pan over low heat until golden brown. It will require about five minutes on each side. Sprinkle with sugar and serve with butter. The annual blueberry season is short. Enjoy it while you can!
Most Canadian cookbooks have a selection on the utilization of blueberries in a wide variety of recipes. Two that can be recommended are: Tides Table by Ross and Willa Mavis plus Tastes of the Tantramar, edited by Betty Dobson. The most comprehensive entirely devoted to blueberry cookery is The Blueberry Connection: With Fable Fact and Folklore by Beatrice Ross Buszek.
