Tantramar Flashback -
In the Maritime provinces, autumn is marked by the annual harvesting of crops. Two areas, the Annapolis Valley in Nova Scotia and the Memramcook Valley in New Brunswick, rate special mention for the excellence of their orchards. Both areas produce award-winning apples in a variety of taste and colour.
The sale of locally-grown apples each autumn means that an opportunity is presented to enjoy many varieties. Because Memramcook is within easy driving distance of the Tantramar, it is my suggestion that readers sample first hand some of the apples and other produce that is for sale locally.
Not well known is the fact that the production of apples in the Maritimes takes us back to the early 17th century. Shortly after the founding of Port Royal in 1605, French settlers recognized that the local soil and climate were suitable for the growing of apples, pears and other fruit.
Later, the French explorer and author Nicolas Denys (1598-1688) noted the "seeds of pears and apples" were planted at his trading post at Nepisiguit in Northern New Brunswick. Much to his surprise they grew and prospered in what he described as "the coldest location that I have seen and the one where there is the most snow."
Additional evidence of the early flourishing of apple trees is found in travel accounts of other visitors to Acadia in the late 1600s.
Here's one example from the pen of Joseph Robineau de Villebon (1655-1700) who became commandant at Port Royal in 1691. Note that his comments were made following a sufficient time lapse for apple trees to bear fruit. In a mÉmoir describing gardening conditions in Acadia he wrote: "Many vegetables were to be found including: oignons, carottes, chives . . . and all other ingredients for the making of salads." He then gave special attention to apples, claiming that Port Royal was like "a little Normandy for apples." He noted as well the presence of both pear and cherry trees.
According to historian J. C. Webster (1863-1950), there were three main varieties of apples cultivated by the Acadians. These were: the Rambour, a large green or yellow apple; the Reinette, which was "variable" in both size and colour; and the Calville, a popular species from Normandy. It was often designated as the classic French dessert apple and, in addition, the cider derived from this variety was described "outstanding."
However, it was not until after the Expulsion of the Acadians in 1755 that the major development of the apple industry took place. The New England Planters and Loyalists who followed the Acadians introduced new varieties and accordingly, the apple industry became well established in the Annapolis Valley.
It is of interest that Rev. Charles Inglis (1734-1816), first Anglican Bishop of Nova Scotia, played an important role in the development of this industry. He found the climate in the provincial capital Halifax "to be disagreable" and spent considerable time at his country estate in Auburn, Kings County, Nova Scotia.
In his words: "The bleak air of Halifax, standing on the margin of the ocean, disagreed with me so much that . . . I have removed to this place, where I have purchased lands and built a home."
One suspects that there was another reason for this move. He enjoyed gardening and availed himself of the opportunity to "experiment with new species of apples." One of these became known in his honour as the "Bishop Pippin" - an apple which made Inglis deservedly famous.
In a diary entry, he wrote: "On October 29th, 1798, I transplanted 32 apple trees, raised from Nova Scotia apple seeds." On another occasion he noted having transplanted "another 86 apple trees into the new nursery east of the North Garden." Quite apart from his church-related duties, Bishop Charles Inglis earned the right to be called "a founder" of the apple industry in the Maritimes."
What is your favourite apple? Since apples form an important part of the Canadian diet this may not be a fair question! For this reason I've decided to nominate a few popular varieties for consideration. All are now available; however, you may have to travel to either the Annapolis or Memramcook Valleys to find examples of the lesser-known varieties.
There is general agreement that the Astrakan apple originated in Siberia and Northern China, and as such may be regarded as the "founder" of the species. Not as common today as it once was, it may still be found in older orchards. Another historical favourite the Yellow Transparent assumed an important place in Maritime orchards largely because it was "ready for eating" before other varieties.
One of the best-known variety of apples is the Gravenstein, noteworthy as an "all-purpose apple" that is good not only for eating but also for its versatility in cooking. It has a long history, and may have been first grown in the Grastein area of Denmark in the mid-1660s. Such is this apple's popularity that it is claimed by Germany, Russia and Italy! Regardless of its origins, the Gravenstein apple is enjoyed throughout the world.
The Gravenstein was first introduced in the Maritimes by a noted horticulturalist Charles Ramage Prescott (1772-1859). On his estate "Acacia Grove" at Starr's Point, Nova Scotia he reportedly grafted and tested more than a hundred varieties of apples.Obviously many of these were experimental in nature.
To show some idea of his widesread interest, Prescott also cultivated apricots, cherries, grapes, peaches, pears, plums and strawberries. His home at Starr's Point near Port Williams N.S. is now a provincial museum and well worth a visit.
In a check of some local supermarkets, I was not too surprised to discover that their two best-selling apples are the McIntosh Red and Braeburn varieties. These apples are available year round. During the local "off season" they are imported from as far away as Chile and the southern United States.
If there is a thoroughly "Canadian" apple, it has to be the McIntosh Red. The story begins in 1796 in the community of Dundela, near Dundas in southwestern Ontario. There, a monument erected by the Ontario Historical Sites Board summarizes the origin of this variety.
A McIntosh family - first emigrated from Inverness, Scotland, to the Mohawk Valley in the state of New York. In 1796 the family of John McIntosh (1777-1846) moved to Upper Canada. In 1811, while clearing land, he discovered several apple seedlings. These were transplanted and one bore an apple that was destined to become famous as the "McIntosh Red."
Over time, his son Allan McIntosh established a nursery that sucessfully promoted the new species. The inscription on the monument concludes: "The popularity of the McIntosh Red in many lands attest the initative and industry of John McIntosh and his descendants."
In 1893, the McIntosh house caught fire. Unfortunately the famous apple tree was close to the house and suffered severe damage. Despite this setback, the surviving section of the tree continued to produce apples until 1908.
So far as their history is concerned, the Braeburn apple stands in contrast wth the much venerated McIntosh Red. A thoroughly modern variety, it originated in New Zealand in the 1950s. The apple itself was named after the Braeburn Orchard where it was first grown commercially. Because of its popularity, by 2009 it is to be found in all major apple-growing regions.
As one apple authority noted: "The reason for its success is not difficult to pinpoint. Braeburn is fairly easy to grow, produces heavily and early in the life of the tree. It stores well, and withstands the handling demands of international supply chains."
In addition, "What makes it stand out from the competition is flavour. Braeburn was the first modern apple variety in large-scale production, where its flavour was genuinely equal to the older classic apple varieties. Thus Braeburn's 'depth of taste' makes its main competition - Red Delicious and Golden Delicious - seem one-dimensional in comparison." Mark one up for New Zealand!
If you travel through the Tantramar region or elsewhere in the Maritimes during apple blossom season, you can easily detect clumps of untended apple trees. These are often the only evidence of a once-thriving family farm. In the early 20th century it was common paractise for apple tree salesmen to travel though rural communities each spring selling apple trees for planting. Overnight accomodation was often paid for by leaving a sample of a tree or two. This helps explain why many Maritime farms, in 2009, possess small orchards.
Today the Memramcook Valley is noted for the famous Belliveau Orchard. Located in PrÉ-d'en-Haut on the eastern bank of the Petitcodiac River, it was started in the early 20th century by Sebastian Belliveau.
More recently, in 1967 it was purchased by Louis Bourgeois and is now operated by his sons Robert and Jean-Louis. In 1999, a cottage winery store was opened. It sells a variety of apple products including wines, sparkling wines, sparkling juice and cider. More details may be obtained by visiting their website www.fermebourgeoisfarms.ca
Obviously, in one column it was not possible to cover all aspects of the apple industry. If your favourite apple was not mentioned, do not despair. I hope to return to this topic in the future.
Ideas for, or comments about Tantramar Flashbacks, may be addressed to Bill Hamilton in care of the Sackville Tribune Post, 80 Main Street, Sackville, NB, E4L 4A7, or via e-mail at tribune@nbnet.nb.ca A number of previous Flashbacks may also be found in recent online issues of this newspaper.
